* A few years ago, Chichester District Council surveyed its residents and businesses and then produced a document setting out a “Vision” for the city.[1] Among much else, this calls for the area around the train and bus stations to become “a key transport hub“[2].
* The Chichester Society has recently learned that the council is pressing ahead with long-standing proposals to re-develop the area in which the bus and train stations sit, as part of the “Southern Gateway” project. However, far from creating a “transport hub” or a “gateway” worth the name, the council is proposing to take away even the relatively good provision that now exists.
* They are proposing to close the bus station and all its facilities, and replace it with a line of bus stops on a bleak stretch of road which is exposed to the elements, hidden from the train station down a confusing route which “designs in” conflict between pedestrians and vehicles, and pedestrians and cyclists. In addition, there would be no facilities other than the sorry public toilets that happen to already exist in a nearby multi-storey car park.[3],[4]
* This flies in the face of what residents and businesses told the council they wanted, and runs directly counter to the principle of seizing opportunities for good town planning when they arise.
* All current deliberations seem to be taking place behind closed doors, to the exclusion of input from bus and train users and local residents – at precisely the time such input could make the most difference.
* There is no evidence that the Council has yet considered any disability implications.
* The proposal to close the bus station appears to be entirely financially driven. But even the financial assumptions seem questionable.
[1] “Chichester Tomorrow – Your City Your Vision”. https://www.chichester.gov.uk/CHttpHandler.ashx?id=29358&p=0 [2] Vision Document, p.30. [3] This assumes that reports are correct that the stops are to be located on the Avenue de Chartres. If not correct, bus users and Chichester residents need to be brought out of the dark and told what is actually planned. [4] For a fuller discussion of problems of this location, see the commentary on the final page before the appendices, titled “Designs for Chichester – The Worst of All ?”
Most towns outside the South Downs National Park boundary proudly claim that they are a ‘gateway to the National Park.’ Indeed, the National Park Authority consider Chichester to be the major gateway to the National Park from the coastal plain.
This is because, first, Centurion Way will soon be extended from West Dean to Cocking Hill to meet the South Downs Way from Winchester to Eastbourne; and second, because Chichester’s bus and rail stations allow visitors to easily transfer from train to bus and continue on one of the three bus services to Petersfield, Midhurst or Petworth.
Proposals to improve access to the South Downs Way from both Winchester and Eastbourne are under discussion. But Chichester’s access to the Downs may be worsened if Centurion Way is diverted to allow for the Whitehouse Farm phase 2 development and by proposals to close the bus station.
Residents and the District Council need to be aware of these threats.
A printed copy of the Newsletter is sent to members, and the previous issue is made available on the website – so if you’re not a member then do join!
IN THIS ISSUE
1 Seasons greetings!
2 History in the Making – an invitation
3 We remember Michael Woolley
3 50 South Downs Villages
3 Whitehouse Farm
4 Unravelling the Southern Water fiasco
6 Housing delivery and the Local Plan
8 C G Stillman, Chichester’s chief 20th century architect
10 The Chichester Canal in winter
12 Chichester-Ravenna twinning: a 25th anniversary
14 A boundary walk around Chichester
16 AGM reports
17 Margaret Paren OBE on the South Downs National Park
18 Civic pride and why alarm bells should ring
20 Support our advertisers!
The Fountain at 29 Southgate is probably Chichester’s oldest surviving pub, dating back to the late eighteenth century. It abutted the south gate of the city as shown by a missing length of cornice. Apart from a brief interruption in the 1980s, when it was renamed, the Cathedral Tavern, it has always been known as the Fountain.
The Fountain
What was described as a ‘gargantuan meal’ was eaten here in 1807 by a soldier looking to win a bet. George Neal was the landlord here in the 1830s. His daughter, Sarah, married Joseph Wells, the Kent county cricketer. Their son found fame as the novelist, H.G.Wells. The old game of Singlesticks or Back-sword was played here. One worthy winner was known as the ‘Muff of Lavant.’
On 12 November 1873 licensed victualler of the Inn, Sampson Willcocks was declared bankrupt in Lloyds list. A special license was granted to George Smith for the Fountain, as trustee under the bankruptcy of Sampson, and temporary authority was given to George Griffiths to carry on the house till next transfer day when the license was to be transferred to him.
It seemed to be the favoured venue for meetings of Post Office staff – the Amalgamated Society of telephone employees (Chichester Branch) held a ‘smoking’ concert in 1914 while the Engineering Staff (Post Office Telephones) enjoyed one 1915. Those in 1914 enjoyed a programme of songs such as ‘Tis the Navy’, ‘Handy Man’, Madam La Sharta’ and ‘O’er the green fields’ with an interlude where Mr Reed-Ford performed his sleight of hand tricks and card manipulation. It was also noted that Mr Cole’s Tango dance was very amusing! In 1915 a collection was initiated limited to 1d to provide matches for wounded soldiers – it realized 4s (about £50 in 2020).
The Fountain pub sign
The Fountain Inn is privately owned but is leased to Hall and Woodhouse for a period of 49 years from 1997. The Fountain Inn including the buildings adjoining the Inn to the West were Grade II listed in 1971.
1581 is the earliest documentary evidence of the existence of the King’s Head.
Trents pub sign
An ale house was on this site (50 South Street) from about 1599. It was in around 1740 that the Tudor façade was added to the Tudor building. Legend claims that a tunnel once ran from the King’s Head to the Cathedral, so that choristers could enjoy a covert pint of ale. The clockmaker, Henry Fogden, was landlord from 1804 until after 1840.
A gruesome event occurred in 1889 when a man named John Dyer purchased some rat poison from a nearby chemist and subsequently entered the King’s Head to consume the potion mixed with some beer in an attempted suicide. Becoming violently sick he was taken to infirmary where he recovered. Appearing at the City Bench later he was let off with a warning of the serious nature of his offence – one ‘against the laws of both God and Man’.
In 1891 publican Frederick Tilling was convicted for ‘selling gin not of the nature, substance and quality demanded by the purchaser’ it being 40.3 degrees under proof having been examined by the public analyst. It consisted of two parts gin of the lowest legal strength and ten parts of added water. A notice stating ‘All sprits sold in this establishment are diluted’ had been displayed at times but ‘it was possible that while dusting the place the notice might have fallen behind the glasses on the shelf’ said Tilling. Tilling was fined £2 and 13s costs, the alternative being fourteen days’ imprisonment.
King’s Head advert of 1894
Mrs Raynor, landlady in 1898, was the innocent party in an attempt by Ann Sharp, employed at the King’s Head, to obtain a sum of 10s from Mrs Turner, the owner of a neighbouring shop Turner and Son. The girl had sent a note to Mrs Turner, via a lad James Munro who also worked at the Inn, stating ‘With Mrs Rayner’s complements. Would you mind lending me half a sovereign’s worth of change until Mr Raynor gets up and gets some, and then I will send it back over to you’. Suspicions arose when Mrs Raynor received a request that evening for repayment of 10s and it was discovered that Ann now possessed a new pair of shoes. On further questioning Ann admitted the offence and was committed for trial with bail being accepted for £20 and two sureties of £10 each.
The Kings Head old with marching cadetsThe King’s Head under Friary Meux
Friary Meux was revived by Allied in 1979 as a brand name for its public houses, but disappeared after Allied’s pubs were sold to Punch Taverns in 1999.
The King’s Head was the venue for several bodies, one being the ‘Falstaff’ Lodge of the Royal Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes. A policemen’s dinner (not ball!) was held for over 200 guests in 1904. Landlord Styles ran a welding business in the 1930s on the site which continued under new ownership after his death. Mrs Mary Harriet Drury died aged 77 in 1936 having had the licence at the inn for nearly 30 years.
1926 Styles Welder advert
The ancient name of the pub was changed in 1994 to the Hog’s Head. Green King purchased the property in 2006 and it subsequently become Trent’s bar-restaurant providing accommodation, so, in a sense, it has become an inn!
On the East side at 61 South Street you will find Prezzo’s, once The White Horse. This former inn dates back to at least 1533, having been mentioned then at an inquest to a local murder. However, it appears to have existed earlier as Ye Olde White House built in 1416 as the Chichester Law Courts.
The White Horse Inn – Now Prezzos
The building was re-fronted in the eighteenth century, although the original Tudor timber-framed jetty can still be seen at the back of the building when viewed from West Pallant. A jetty is a building technique used in medieval timber-frame buildings in which an upper floor projects beyond the dimensions of the floor below. This has the advantage of increasing the available space in the building without obstructing the street.
Earlier image aS AN iNNThe White Horse South Street when owned by Brickwoods showomg external jettyA cozy welcome in the pastEarly image of The White Horse
You can still see the White Horse stained glass window and the original ornate eighteenth century wrought-iron bracket from which hangs a carved bunch of grapes which indicated the holding of a wine licence in the past.
The White Horse sign
The White Horse sign indicates patronage relating to the Duke of Norfolk a powerful landowner in the region.
The original Inn sign can be seen
Various masonic lodges, tradesmen’s societies and clubs met here and held their annual dinners, often with the Duke of Richmond in attendance. Such organisations included the Chichester and District Cyclist’s Club (who organised a ‘smoking’ concert in 1890), the Chichester Postmen, the Motor Cycling Club, the British Legion and the Priory Park Cricket Club.
The penalty for selling intoxicating liquor during prohibited hours could lead to loss of licence. Robert Fraser, the licensee in 1925 was able to avoid conviction for serving around 11 pm, thanks in part to the to the threat of the brewers to serve notice to quit themselves if he was found guilty, he being a highly satisfactory tenant. He was let off with payment of costs £4 8s and fines of 4s to two others who aided and abetted.
The White Horse Inn was purchased freehold by Benja Properites Ltd in 2015 and became a restaurant when leased to Prezzo for a period of 30 years from 2005.
Opposite the NatWest bank are Nos. 92 and 93, formerly a spacious Elizabethan timber framed dwelling called Scarborough House where it is said John Lord Lumley entertained Queen Elizabeth in August 1591.
The Royal Arms building front view
He was succeeded in 1609 by his kinsman Sir Richard Lumley, created Lord Lumley of Waterford in 1628, and he by his grandson Richard, created Earl of Scarbrough in 1690. The house seems to have passed to James, seventh son of the earl, in 1721 and on his death, unmarried, to his nephew George Montague, Earl of Halifax. Mr. Weller is described as proprietor in 1750, hinting at the creation of the drinking establishment at No. 92 (1).
John Hudson, who was recorded as an Inn Keeper in the Subdeanry of Chichester in 1830, and as an Inn Keeper at the Dolphin in 1832, was proprietor by 1840 at 92 East Street. That year Queen Victoria appointed him by Royal Warrant ‘to the place of manufacture of milk punch to her Majesty’. King Edward VII also imbibed whilst staying at Goodwood House. Its ingredients included milk, lemon juice, sugar, and rum brewed for two years and was originally made by one Parker in the early part of that century. Such was the drink’s fame that the establishment soon became referred to as ‘Old Royal Punch House’ or simply the Punch House.
Old punch houseThe Royal Arms matchbox
John Tapps was a wine merchant in East Street in 1851 and in 1861 was recorded additionally as the licensed victualler at the Royal Arms. That year George Adames, a commercial clerk, was also a wine merchant in East Street. By 1881 the wine merchant business was being run by the sons Thomas and Frederick as Adames Brothers following George’s death. By 1899 the brothers had split with Frederick continuing at No 92 and Thomas taking over as wine and spirit merchant at the Anchor.
Fred Adames Punch manufacturer advert 18971939 Old Punch meeeting to form groups for road vehichles for war effort
The Australian wine was said to be equal in flavour and strength to good port and could be tested by ‘sampling’. Yatara is in a region of South Australia famous for wine production. There is a record of a Mr David Shannon’s farm there in 1863 having some acreage planted with vines for some years. The first wine export to the United Kingdom to be formally recorded was in 1854 – 1,384 gallons (6,291 litres). The Australian wine industry was developed largely with the help of German immigrants skilled in winemaking.
In 1916 there is a reminder of the ‘lock down’ restrictions imposed during the Covid 19 pandemic when only takeaways were allowed. The Liquor Control Board restrictions of the time forced Messrs G S Constable to only permit the supply of beers, wines and spirits which had been previously ordered and paid for at their premises – which included the ‘Old Royal Milk Punch House’.
Extensive alterations and improvements were made to the Punch House by Constable around 1926 including the creation of a ‘cosy Tudor lounge and bar’, the work often revealing treasures from the past such as a Tudor wine vault (empty!), remains of an ancient square tower probably with views to the harbour and a lower part of the brickwork appearing to be Roman.
The Punch House formed a Tontine club in 1928 but added a feature – the Cork Club whereby each new member received a cork which they must always carry in their possession. Failure to produce it if challenged by a fellow member resulted in a small fine. The money thus collected was intended to be dividend among the members and added to their funds at the annual ‘share-out’. This was a baby offshoot of the ‘Frothblowers’ movement!
In 1933 it was noted that ‘our City seems to be the haunt of film stars, actors and actresses’. Gordon Walker, ‘an idol of Chichester cinema audiences’ chose The Royal Arms as his favourite rendezvous while Gracie Fields and George Graves used the Unicorn hotel for rest and refreshment.
1939 Old Punch meeeting to form groups for road vehichles for war effort
All owners of goods vehicles were invited to attend a meeting in March 1939 to discuss the forming of ‘groups’ under the Ministry of Transport Scheme for the organisation and control of road transport in time of war. At the end of May, particulars of 441,770 vehicles were registered in traffic area offices, estimated to represent 89 per cent. of all the goods vehicles in the country.
With the 2nd world war over, meetings could be of a more domestic nature as exemplified by the AGM of the Chichester and District Domestic Poultry Keepers’ and Rabbit Club in 1949 when it was noted that any applications for a bran allocation for the rabbits should be made to the recently appointed Club Secretary.
The pub closed in 2006 following a serious fire. Fortunately, the exquisite Tudor moulded ceilings survived the blaze, although they are now hidden underneath a suspended ceiling in the current shop. The building was listed Grade II in 1971.
The building at 5-6 East Street occupied by the National Westminster Bank was completed in 1900 for the London and County Banking Company and was designed in a late period of Gothic with oriel windows. Earlier it was the site of the Swan Inn recorded to go back to 1513 making it one of the oldest inns in Chichester.
The Swan East Street oil painting ex Pallant House Gallery (1)
In the seventeenth century it vied with The Dolphin as the ‘top’ inn having in 1638 named bedchambers such as Fox, Lion, Rose, Bell, Angel, Green and Spread Eagle, likely to be decorated with appropriate motifs. – such titling indicative of superiority.
In April 1628 It is likely that Lionel Cranfield, The Earl of Middlesex and ex-Lord Treasurer of England and owner of the Wiston Estate stayed overnight where Edward Salloway or his father Thomas might have been his host. Supper was meat, fowl and fish with apple tart for dessert – charged for eating in a private room (6p for a fire and a bill of £8 2s for the stay).
Innkeepers were not averse to cheating. Mr. Salloway, innkeeper and merchant of the Swan, was not selling his hay ‘by the bottle’ in 1627 and the Swan was fined in 1659 for selling overpriced beer and ‘not bottleing their haye’. This latter is thought to refer to storing hay in standard bundles or in bottles to prevent cheating.
One innkeeping John Askewe ‘feloniously’ hanged himself in the ‘faggottre chamber’ of the Inn in 1577, possibly due to indebtedness despite his goods and chattels being worth £22 0s 6d (over £6,000 today).
The Swan, also known as the Royal Swan, was the hub of life in eighteenth and nineteenth century Chichester. Dr Samuel Johnson stayed here and the fiery Radical, William Cobbett gave lectures here. It was rebuilt in 1819 after a disastrous fire. In 1832, the inn boasted hot and cold baths, good stabling, lock-up coach houses, post horses, chaises and every convenience for the traveller.
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed here overnight when journeying to Portsmouth for the crossing to their house at Osborne on the Isle of Wight. The royal couple came out onto the balcony to acknowledge the cheers of the crowds. The Swan was also used for meetings of the Mayor and Corporation when it was too cold to meet in the Guildhall in Priory Park. The Inn closed sometime after 1845.
(1) The painting of the Swan dated 1715 is reproduced with permission of the Pallant House Gallery. Description of the Swan Inn sign: A large and elaborate wrought iron sign bracket reaches a third of the way across the street. From it hangs a large sign, dominating the scene; it supports a picture of a white swan, standing against a sunset with wings outstretched and neck curved. Suspended from the arched end of the bracket is a carved wooden representation of Bacchus, the god of wine, astride a wine barrel with four bunches of grapes swinging below, the whole gilded; it indicated that good wine and a high standard of service was available within.
The genesis of the Cattle Market Inn at 13 Eastgate Square was the formation around 1869 of a road leading down to the new Cattle Market the creation of which had been approved by Parliament in June 1868.
The Devonshire Inn beer house run by James Stevens for many years was situated at the corner of Snag Lane (or Sway in 1868 paper) and at the entrance of the new road (now Market Road). He argued that it was in an ideal position to service the needs of customers if it was granted a spirit licence, many of whom had signed a ‘memorial’ in support of his application. Despite objections from neighbouring establishments the application was granted in August 1869 and the name of the beer house was changed to the Cattle Market Inn shortly thereafter.
The Cattle Market Inn
Of later licensees one Henry Jacobs was recorded in the 1881 census as also trading as a bookbinder. The snowy scene of the Inn was taken in 1881. In 1888 it was the venue for a ‘smoking concert’ attended by forty or fifty of the ‘weed fraternity’ enjoying songs sung to an accompanying. At this time it was the meeting place for the “Pride of Sussex’ Lodge of the Royal Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes. The RAOB is one of the largest fraternal organisations in the United Kingdom believed to have been founded by stagehands and theatre technicians in 1882 at the Harp Tavern near Drury Lane.
The Cattle Market Inn near left Eastgate Square
The public bar sems to have been unsuitably positioned as it occasionally suffered damage by vehicles negotiating Eastgate. In 1942 the public bar was struck by a Service lorry creating a ‘blitzed’ appearance while in 1943 a case was brought against an RAF officer whose car collided with a 50 cwt lorry which mounted the path and took out the window and surrounding masonry. In the event the lorry driver was found at fault in the subsequent County Court case.
The Cattle Market Inn now Turner’s Pie
The inn was sold for retail use in 1988. The freehold, like The Bull, is held by Cassamo Holdings Ltd based in the Isle of Man and was leased to Turners Pies in 2016.
The Bull Inn located at 4-5 Market Road was a Free house that closed in 2015.
The Bull inn signThe Bull after closure
Carpenter Samuel Wren was the publican in 1881 when the road was called Snag Lane. This name may come from the Sussex dialect word ‘snag’ meaning snail.
In 1896 the inn was the location for an inquest on the Lord Bishop of Chichester’s butler William Cramp who lived at 4 Market Road with his wife Mary Jane. On a Tuesday morning William got up as usual about half-past six and went downstairs. As he did not return despite her calling out for him she rushed down and found him in an outhouse with his throat cut. Mary called in for Mr Hunt the licensee of the Bull who summoned Dr. Ernest Buckell. William was still alive and was conveyed to the Infirmary but died on the way and was brought back. The Lord Bishop gave evidence saying that relations at the Palace with William were satisfactory. William had apparently been suffering from depression for some time exacerbated by an illness and subsequent hospital operation. The jury returned a verdict of ‘suicide while temporarily insane’.
In 1905 landlord Thomas Brown who had a reputation for drunkenness was charged with assaulting his daughter and threatening the family. ‘He had been an awful blackguard to his wife all his life’ said one daughter. He was bound over for a surety of £25 and ordered to keep peace for a month and pay cost of 9s 6d.
Licensee Edward Linkhorn suffered a tragedy in 1911 when his 36 year old son Charles Linkhorn was found drowned in the Canal. He had earlier been drinking at the Richmond Arms and according to the pub’s licensee William Soal was seen walking ‘not quite straight’ to the Station. He had appeared to have no worries, but the fact that his mackintosh and hat had been carefully put under the wall before drowning might suggest to some that the deceased had put himself in the water. In the end the inquest returned an open verdict of ‘found drowned’.
The Bull inn ran a knock-out darts competition and was at times the location for the annual general meeting of the Chichester City Band. At its 1937 meeting its accounts showed a balance of £6 7s. The Bandmaster, Mr E.D. Shepherd noted that 1936 had been an important one as it marked the beginning of contest work.
In 1942 at the Chichester City Bench it was acknowledged that licensed victuallers experienced difficulties in acquiring a full knowledge of all the legislation affecting their trade. Harold Anderson was a licensee in the 1940s and like other licensees at the time fell foul of the practice of buying liquor from seemingly authorised persons due to the difficulty experienced by licensees in obtaining sufficient spirits which resulted in having to refuse many customers. The convicted seller of the spirits was a youth of 18 who frequently visited the pubs of the defendants. Harold was let off lightly with a fine of £5 and costs of £1 1s. Harold was still licensee in 1947 when he died suddenly in his sleep.
The Bull before closure
The current owners of the freehold are Cassamo Holdings Ltd based in the Isle of Man who registered the title in 1992.
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